This is based on do-it-yourself over clocking only? What if you get that
commercial over-clock package, do you still need to slow-down in order
to use the serial connection?
From: Ed Kummel [mailto:tech_ed_at_yahoo.com]=20
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [NTLK] Overclock - Reset after switch?
I've found that once you are acelerated, there is
little need to go back. I don't use a keyboard and
there are only two other newtons I interact with on a
semi regular basis and one of those is acelerated! As
such, I have yet to experience a lockup based on a bad
As to a switch? Well, I'm sure that there is someone
on this list with a bad card that wouldn't mind
selling it to you for a reasonable price. The toughest
part is dissembling (a kind word for what I did to my
card) the card!=20
I don't know if you had a chance to, but check out my
acelerate page at:
I give instructions on both switched and non-switched.
I also have to concure with Stephanie on the solder.
Never use acid core flux on electronics. I always use
an organic rosin core solder. Acid core solder is
designed to "etch" the metal pipe to allow the solder
to get through any oxydation on the pipe. The pads and
traces on a PC board are very thin and the acid core
can etch through the pad completly over time! (faster
in an humid environment)
As for the differences between the crystals? I have
asked everywhere and never got a definitive answer. My
guess is that one takes more juice to power the
crystal then the other. but that's just a
guess...Practical experience has shown that they are
basically interchangeable based on a purely hobbiest
I believe that there was someone on this list with a
PIX solution overclock and they found that 220Mhz was
the most stable. As for a variable crystal? Hmmm,
don't think so.
http://newton.tek-ed.com (download Newton packages)
http://npds.tek-ed.com (my NPDS server and it's new
--- "Chris_at_Backstage" <webmaster_at_backstage.de> wrote:
> Hello all Overclockers,
> I saw a 5Mhz for 1,75Eur/$ and couldn't resist.
> Except from taking the old
> crystal off the board, it was easy. I am still
> looking for a nice, small
> Is it recommended to do a reset after switching
> speed? Someone (I think Mrs.
> Stephanie) wrote earlier, that the Newton could run
> for some time without
> any crystal - then I guess a reset would be best to
> prevent problems.
> Let me recommend 220Mhz to everyone. You don't get a
> whole new Newton, but
> it feels much snappier. HWR is faster, and if I mark
> something I don't have
> to wait so long for the Newton to accept it. It
> simply feels good. Use a
> switch, so in any case you can switch back.
> Has anyone a stable Newton with more than 220? What
> is the next crystal? Is
> there a variable crystal (like 3-8Mhz) for
> P.S.: Something I probably should have asked before:
> But what is the difference between rosin and acid
> core electronics solder?
> What is that parallel, 18-20pf. spec?
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