OK. If this were my Newt, I would find some way to
remove the ribbon cable from the case. Lay it out on a
piece of glass so that both pieces are joined together
in the way they are supposed to. Anchor them down
(doublesided tape would work) and liberally coat the
backside with some RTV Silicon. Let this setup (make
sure to spread the RTV beyond the edges of the ribbon
cable. Then when it sets up, peel it off of the glass
to create a kinda "wing" of hardened (yet flexible)
silicon. Scrape the ribbon cable with a sharp x-acto
knife to get the plastic off of the ribbon cable till
you get down to the metal trace. Use a piece of
solderwick and bridge the gap, preferably with the
wick over the gap still flexible. Put a thin layer of
RTV on the exposed side of the ribbon cable and fold
the RTV wings over ontop to fully cocoon the damaged
ribbon (now repaired) with RTV. It will be ugly, but I
think that it would work!
Ed
web/gadget guru
--- "Bernie A. Goltermann" <bagoltermann_at_ksaits.com>
wrote:
> Ed Kummel wrote:
>
> > Oh man...I hate to tell you this...but this is a
> bad
> > one!
> > There are a few untested theories on ribbon cable
> > repair...but none of them have been fully tested.
> >
> > I've had some success (mainly with cables that
> never
> > NEVER move with rear window defogger repair
> liquid.
> > You gotta "glop" it on thick and put on several
> coats.
> > After that, cover it liberaly with some locktite
> (I
> > forget the number, but it stays flexible...
> >
>
> Ed,
> Thanks, I remember now about the defogger repair
> liquid trick..
> Unfortunately, this cable is cut clean through two
> of the traces and to
> top it off the cut is where the ribbon cable makes
> the last 90 degree bend around
> the board. I don't think that this is the best
> place to make a repair.
> Just for info, how do you go about exposing the
> trace (take off the plastic.)
> It's so thin... I'd be afraid to touch it with
> anything sharp.
>
> Bernie
=====
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