From: RAParker (quadzillanet_at_newted.org)
Date: Fri Feb 24 2006 - 00:45:59 PST
On Feb 23, 2006, at 3:00 PM, Keyth Owen wrote:
> OK. I'm going to attempt the hinge repair myself. Following the
> instructions online shouldn't be a problem,
The first time, you should allow yourself 4-6 hours to disassemble,
repair the hinges, and, re-assemble your emate. Once you get it apart
and get down to removing the clutch springs, you'll suddenly realize
how easy it is to do and you'll say, "Wow! This is easier than I
thought!"
Print out the instructions and go through them step by step. You'll
want to re-read the details each step of the way as you are performing
the repair. A few of the instructions seem detailed but will make more
sense when your hands are in the middle of it. I used a laptop and had
the website handy.
I also recommend, as mentioned by Frank, using a piece of paper and
scotch tape. Tape the screws and small pieces to the paper, and label
them as you remove them. This helps keep the small pieces in one place
and makes it easy to remember what order they go back in.
> and the soldering is minor
> enough that I'm not worried. Mostly, I have two concerns:
>
I didn't have to solder the ribbon cable, that would be scary.
De-soldering and re-soldering the speaker and backlight wires is pretty
straight forward and easy. Just pull (on) the wire lightly and touch
the soldering iron to the solder...the wire pulls right out without too
much effort, leaving the solder in place.
> 1. I couldn't find zinc-plated 10mm washers. I had to settle for zinc
> washers. Will these be OK?
>
> 2. I'm worried about making the hinge too loose/tight. Without having
> access to a vice any time soon, my ability to follow the suggestions on
> tightening/loosening the hinge will be slightly crippled. Any ideas?
>
In my instance, only one clutch spring (on each hinge) had popped.
There are two clutch springs per hinge for a total of four springs,
only two of the four were deformed. I simply used the the good ones (as
examples) as to how to reshape the deformed ones. I used locking
vice-grips and a pair channel-locks, squishing and pulling it back into
proper shape.
Set all four springs side by side to see if they look the same shape,
size and length.
How loose? How tight?
As mentioned, you should HAVE to use something to put the clutch
springs back on to the axles. The springs should be loose/tight enough
that you can (barely) slide them down the axle (with a twisting and
pulling motion) using your fingers. The springs should also be tight
enough that you cannot put them on to the axle in the first place,
without mechanically pressing them back on. The table vice (in the
online instructions) is a great example of how it should be done.
But...
Without a vice, try the channel-locks. Or, you can improvise by
pressing the axle down onto the spring using two flat surfaces. Once
again, the springs should be tight enough that you have to press them
on and loose enough that you can slide them down the axle (with a
little effort, of course) afterward.
When first reading the instructions, I was a little worried about
repairing and reshaping springs too. But, once getting to that part of
the repair, I then understood how the clutch springs did their job, and
it all made perfect sense. You too will see, it's a lot of fun and very
rewarding when it's all back together. After, you will probably do what
I did: open and close the lid, and open and close the lid, over and
over again, just to feel how smoooooth it works.
Have fun...
Ron
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RAParker
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|\ | @ Quadzilla.NET
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My name is R A Parker. I own a Newton and a Mac.
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