Have you ever tried solder wicking? For those that don't know, this is a
fine braided copper that when applied to melted solder sucks or wicks it up
leaving a very clean circuit board. Back in the day, when I used to do board
level repairs, using wicking I could free a part from a double sided board.
wicking works well enough that the pads rarely come loose and if the
component was inserted and the leads bent for mechanical strength before
soldering, wicking allows you to remove the solder so you can straighten the
leads for gentle removal.
Matt (Ducky) Howe
Owner of a MP2000U and an Emate
SantaMatt@Gmail.com (Nokia N770)
matthowe@comcast.net (Desktop)
http://home.comcast.net/~mhowe41/
http://SantaMatt.blogspot.com
Woody Smith wrote:
Sonny,
Clumsy hackers such as myself have received stern lectures in the past
( check archives ), but that hasn't stopped me. But if you don't have
truly dead logic boards to practice on you may not want to try this.!.
I use a pair of small horizontal nippers to grasp the crystal firmly
but gently. Rock gently along the long axis of the crystal to break
the bond of the plastic spacer to the logic board. Apply hot fine
pointed soldering iron to one contact and lift that end with the
nippers. A fraction of a second should do the job. Then the other
end, again very brief application of iron, the mission is to melt
solder with minimal transfer of heat.
I found the pads to be solder starved so I lightly tinned them.
I used a rather large SPDT switch and long wires as space permits, but
Stephanie's switch solution is much much better if you have a small
switch.
<http://planetstephanie.net/hi-tech-fun/newton/emate-overclock/>
Woody
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Received on Thu Jun 11 21:08:42 2009
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