Re: [NTLK] New MP130, no sound

From: Frank Gruendel <>
Date: Sat May 09 2009 - 18:34:29 EDT

> However, there is no sound at all. I checked the sound settings, but
> found nothing there. Volume is set to a rather high level. I did
> several soft resets, but to no avail.

Make sure both system and action sounds are turned on in the sound preferences.

> In case I need to do a hard reset: Do I need the AC adapter for that?

No, but I'd recommend only using fully charged rechargeables or new batteries.

> I don't have one, so I'll probably have to get a generic AC adapter.

This is one of the safest way to kill any Newton. All Newtons react sort of annoyed if they are
powered from e. g. an adapter that puts out too high a voltage. Cheap unregulated adapters can put
out 2-3 times what they are labeled with if little current is drawn, which is typically the case if
the Newton doesn't do much. If you do this, make sure to measure the voltage while the adapter isn't
connected to anything. If it is more than 7.5 Volt, get something else.

> Could someone tell me which voltage and polarity the MP130 needs?

7 to 7.5 Volt. Plus inside, Minus outside.

> Which other requirements must such an adapter match?

It should limit the current it puts out to no more than 1.2 Amps.

> One other question regarding AC adapters: When I want to plug in the
> AC adapter, do I have to remove the batteries if they're
> non-rechargeable alcaline batteries?

No. The 130 will know they aren't rechargeables because the 1x0 rechargeable pack has metal clamps
that press a little switch in the battery compartment.

> Because I might have to disassemble the device: Can anyone point me to
> a good take-apart manual/tutorial (preferrably with images)?
> I found one for a MP120 (,
> but either there are some subtle differences or it's not completely
> accurate.

There's one for the 130 right next to it. Just replace the "2" with a "3"...

There are subtle differences, but to the best of my knowledge the tutorial is completely accurate.

> Example: It says that one should simply pull out the flip
> cover.


> But when I look at my device, there are two small screws at the
> hinges so that the hinges look prone to break when the lid is pulled.

The screws fasten the hinges to the flip cover. But you can pull the flip cover along with the
hinges from the rest of the Newton. There's a spring-loaded mechanism that keeps the hinges attached
to the Newton case, but you can pull the cover out with moderate force. Pull it out at 90 degrees
from the Newton. In other words: If the Newton is lying with its back on the table, pull the lid
towards the ceiling. Pull a little stronger on one side fist to get the first hinge out, then a
little stronger on the other side. That's easier than pulling out both hinges at the same time.

> One last question, completely unrelated: At the bottom of the case
> there is something that looks like two contacts next to one of the
> front rubber feet. What are those for?

There's a charging station for the 1x0 Newtons with this form factor (110, 120, 130). It can charge
the batteries in the Newton and an additional battery pack at the same time. The contacts are for
this charging station. Disassembly instructions for the charging station are also in the hardware
section of the site in the signature.

If you really want to work with your Newton, make sure you take care of the usual problems that will
eventually turn any 130 into an (albeit quite nice) paperweight. Do not think that because your
Newton is new it'll be the exception the rule. It won't. I once had a 130 on my workbench that the
owner bought originally sealed, and it had the same problem immediately after unpacking. If you
don't know what I'm talking about, have a look here:


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Received on Sat May 9 18:32:18 2009

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